A Fix For Classic Car Show Power Voting
by: Ray Taylor
As I wrote in a previous article, "Classic Car Show Power Voting", there has been a real challenge at my San Diego Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap with Power Voting. I think I may have found a way to help reduce the imbalance in voting results at People's Choice type of Car Shows.
For those who don't know, Power Voting is when groups such as Car Clubs go to a People's Choice Type Car Show and vote for all their club members and no one else. I believe people should be able to vote for whomever they please. The challenge comes about when those attending the event don't participate by casting their votes for their favorite vehicles. Without a large number of votes being cast, Power Voting can sway the results so the majority of the trophies go to the Power Voting Group.
Voter Apathy strikes again! I think I have found a fix that will help make the voting results more equitable for all entries.
I am going to start doing at my Car Shows what the state of New Mexico is doing to help encourage their people to get out and vote. They bribe them! How? When they vote, they are entered into a Voter's Lottery! That's exactly what I am going to do too!!! When you cast your vote at my events from now, on you will receive a ticket for a Special Raffle just for Voters! Bribery works well with politicians; I think it will help cancel out the effects of Power Voting.
If you have any questions or suggestions about this new addition to my shows, please feel free to contact me. I really appreciate and enjoy hearing your ideas and feedback.
On Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 from 6am to 2pm we will be holding our Annual "Salute Our Troops" Classic Car & Cycle Show & Swap in the SW lot of San Diego Qualcomm Stadium. All Active Military will be given Free entry. If they are in Uniform, I will also treat them to Free Refreshments.
Please come out on Memorial Day, Monday, May 28 and show your support!
Grab A Friend, Bring a G.I., and We'll See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
www.CarsNet.com
Sunday, April 29, 2007
Classic Car Show Power Voting
Classic Car Show Power Voting
by: Ray Taylor
I received a call from a very nice lady after our last event. She was concerned and confused. She was concerned with the number of trophies won by Clubs. She was also confused as to how club members seemed to win a majority of the trophies. I then explained Power Voting to her. Here's what I said.
Power Voting is when all the group/club members vote for all the other club members in the show. This almost guarantees the club will have lots of winners. The reason that this small group of 10 to 30 club members can sway the results is the same reason we end up with lousy politicians Apathy!
Not voting puts the results in the hands of a few rather than the many. Power Voting would be ineffective at Car Shows if a majority of the attendees would take the time to check out the cars and vote for their favorites. If the General Public would just do that, then Power Voting would be of little consequence. But if the General Public doesn't want to be bothered with voting, then Power Voting can absolutely affect the outcome of the trophies awarded.
I know some of you are thinking, "Why not have trophy classes? Won't that help?" We tried having trophy classes for years. It just didn't work and was really unfair to some. One time we would have dozens of cars in the Street Rod Class, then the next time only a few. This was true for almost every show where we had classes. One class would be overloaded and another under represented. Then when we changed things, the problem still existed only in different classes. We felt like a dog chasing its tail trying to keep the classes balanced. It just didn't work. So now we do a People's Choice Award system: if the people like your ride AND they vote for it, you win! The best ideas are always the simplest: get the most votes, and you get Best of Show. This has resulted in the usual outcome, like the Low Rider Bike winning Best of Show in January. The people loved his bike, and he got the most votes so he Won! It's that simple.
For our part, we will continue to ask people to take a ballot and vote for their top 10 favorite vehicles. If they don't, then groups/clubs will control the outcome of the People's Choice Awards at any Car Show. Please do your part, come out on Monday, Memorial Day, May 28 to the next San Diego Car & Cycle Show & Swap at the Q and VOTE!.
See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Classic Car & Cycle-Show & Swap
and Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds
by: Ray Taylor
I received a call from a very nice lady after our last event. She was concerned and confused. She was concerned with the number of trophies won by Clubs. She was also confused as to how club members seemed to win a majority of the trophies. I then explained Power Voting to her. Here's what I said.
Power Voting is when all the group/club members vote for all the other club members in the show. This almost guarantees the club will have lots of winners. The reason that this small group of 10 to 30 club members can sway the results is the same reason we end up with lousy politicians Apathy!
Not voting puts the results in the hands of a few rather than the many. Power Voting would be ineffective at Car Shows if a majority of the attendees would take the time to check out the cars and vote for their favorites. If the General Public would just do that, then Power Voting would be of little consequence. But if the General Public doesn't want to be bothered with voting, then Power Voting can absolutely affect the outcome of the trophies awarded.
I know some of you are thinking, "Why not have trophy classes? Won't that help?" We tried having trophy classes for years. It just didn't work and was really unfair to some. One time we would have dozens of cars in the Street Rod Class, then the next time only a few. This was true for almost every show where we had classes. One class would be overloaded and another under represented. Then when we changed things, the problem still existed only in different classes. We felt like a dog chasing its tail trying to keep the classes balanced. It just didn't work. So now we do a People's Choice Award system: if the people like your ride AND they vote for it, you win! The best ideas are always the simplest: get the most votes, and you get Best of Show. This has resulted in the usual outcome, like the Low Rider Bike winning Best of Show in January. The people loved his bike, and he got the most votes so he Won! It's that simple.
For our part, we will continue to ask people to take a ballot and vote for their top 10 favorite vehicles. If they don't, then groups/clubs will control the outcome of the People's Choice Awards at any Car Show. Please do your part, come out on Monday, Memorial Day, May 28 to the next San Diego Car & Cycle Show & Swap at the Q and VOTE!.
See Ya There!
Ray Taylor
Owner of the San Diego Classic Car & Cycle-Show & Swap
and Classic Cars Net Free Classifieds
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Motorcycle Tire Basics
MOTORCYCLE BALANCING ACT
as they relate to single track vehicles (motorcycles in other words).
it falls over, if left to its own devices when stationary.
is to move the tyre contact patch line to under the new position of the C.of
G. If the bike is stationary this can only be done to a limited extent by moving
the bars, however once under way we can steer the bike to place the position
of the tyre line wherever we need it, and this is why it is easier to balance
when moving. The other way to maintain low speed balance is by moving the combined
C.of G. of both the rider and machine to above the line joining the tyre contact
patches. This is what trials riders are doing when moving their bodies from
side to side whilst standing up. The high C.of G. of the rider has more effect
on the toppling over moment and also gives more control over the position of
the bike's C.of G. Thus to a great extent the process of low speed balance is
dependent on the individual skill of the rider. In addition, some bike parameters
can also affect the ease of remaining upright, the main ones being:
# 1. A low C.of G height helps.
# 2. A large trail changes the position of the tyre line more for a given handlebar
movement.
# 3. A small rake angle reduces the fall of the steering head when the bars
are turned away from the straight ahead position, assisting with the balance
process.
to maintain its plane of rotation. In other words, while it can easily be moved
laterally along the axis of spin, it resists tilting about any other axis, and
more importantly, when it is tilted it automatically causes a strong twisting
moment about an axis at 90 degrees to that of the original tilt. This twisting
effect increases as the speed of the wheel rises, this is known as gyroscopic
precession. When you have finished reading this, I expect you to go and remove
the front wheel from your brother's mountain-bike, if you then obey the following
intructions you will get a graphic practical demonstration of the strength of
these precessional forces, which are so vital to the balance and steering of
any bike. Firstly hold the wheel upright, as in, get your young brother (well
he won't be out riding, will he?) to spin it so that the top of the wheel is
moving away from you, as if it were the front wheel of a machine you were riding.
If you then try to tilt the spindle to the LEFT (equivalent to banking your
machine) you will find that the wheel _turns instantly and strongly to the LEFT,
as if steered by an invisible hand. In other words, your attempt to tilt the
wheel about its fore-and-aft axis has produced a torque swivelling it about
its vertical axis. Now start again but this time turn the wheel to the LEFT
about a vertical axis, just as sharply and strongly it will bank to the RIGHT.
Try both these manoeuvres again, but do it at different wheel speeds and tilting
speeds, you will see that the precessional forces depend strongly on these factors.
Note particularly, the directions in which these forces operate as this is important
for the automatic retention of balance. Let us now see how these forces keep
the machine balanced and on a relatively straight path without assistance from
the rider. Suppose the bike, whilst travelling along at a normal speed, starts
to fall to the left under the action of some extraneous influence. As we have
just seen, gyroscopic precession of the front wheel immediately turns it to
the left. This sets the machine on a curved path (to the left), so creating
a centrifugal force (to the right), which counters the lean and tends to restore
the machine to the vertical, the precessional forces are thus reversed tending
to restore the steering to the straight ahead position. In practice, that which
we regard as riding in a straight line, is really a series of balance correcting
wobbles, if we could look at the actual paths taken by the centre-lines of the
wheels, we should see that the front wheel path continually crosses that of
the rear. In the explanation above, I have only described the effects on the
front wheel, precessional forces are at work on the rear also, but it is much
harder to steer the rear wheel independently, as the whole bike must yaw, rather
than just the wheel and forks, as on the front. Hence, only a small contribution
is made to the auto-balance mechanism by the rear. We have now considered balance
in a straight line, but as we lean when cornering, there must be other factors
at work to maintain equilibrium under these conditions.
opposing moments, the one due to centrifugal force acting outward, and the other
to gravitational force acting downward (both acting through the C.of G.). The
actual angle, which depends on the radius of the turn and the speed of the machine,
is that at which the resultant of the two forces passes through a line joining
the front and rear tyre contact patches. This is the steady-state roll axis.
But how do we actually initiate the turn - do we lean or do we steer first?
Let's see what happens with each method. If we turn the handle-bar in the direction
in which we want to go, both centrifugal force and the front wheel precession
would cause the bike to topple outward, and that leads to gravel rash. But if
we momentarily try to turn the bar quickly in the opposite direction, (sometimes
known as counter steering) then these two forces will combine to bank the machine
to the correct side. Gravity will then augment the banking effect and this,
in turn, will give rise to gyroscopic forces helping to steer the front wheel
into the curve, whereupon the processes for maintaining balance as described
above take over and keep the bike on our chosen path. This is all very well,
I hear you say, but if this is the way to corner, how come we can steer a bike
no-hands. Well, it certainly is possible to do so, but only with a lot more
difficulty. Precise control and tight turns are difficult to accomplish without
handle-bar manipulation. Just try it! Let's consider the no-hands situation.
As we saw earlier, simply banking the bike steers the front wheel in the correct
direction automatically, through precession. But how do we make the bike lean
in the first place, what do we have to push against? There is nothing solid
to push against and so the only way to apply bank (without the facility of steering),
is to push against the machine with the inertia of our own body. This means
in practice, that in order to lean the bike to the right, we must initially
move our body to the left. So now we have two possible methods of initiating
a turn, and it is interesting to note that in both of them (banking and reverse
handle-bar torque) our physical effort is in the opposite sense to that which
might be thought natural, but when learning we adapt quickly and the required
action becomes subconsciously automatic. It is these reverse actions that require
us to learn to ride in the first place, when learning most of us wobble about
out of control until our brain latches on to the fact that counter-steering
and counter-leaning is the way to do it. Once the brain has switched into reverse
gear, it becomes instinctive and is usually with us for life, and we could return
to riding after a long layoff with no need to relearn the art of balancing or
steering. So which of these two possible methods of initiating a turn do we
use in practice? We probably subconsciously combine both methods, and the pressure
on the inner handgrip is partly forward (counter-steering) and partly downward
(banking). Remember though, that the actual counter-steering movement is very
small, since gyroscopic precession depends for its strength on the speed of
movement not on the amount of movement. If you still don't believe that steering
to the opposite side works, then next time you are out riding, try jerking the
bars quickly to one side, and see what happens. Leave yourself plenty of road
if your reactions are a bit on the slow side. Do this at about 40 mph., and
don't blame me if you fall off. The relative proportions with which we combine
the two methods depend partly on riding style but also on speed and machine
characteristics. For example, a heavy machine with light wheels at low speeds
demands a different technique from that applicable to a light weight machine
with heavy wheels at high speeds, and hence the two machines will have a different
feel. But humans adapt quickly and the correct technique soon becomes second
nature. It may seem strange that in the above discussion no mention has been
made of such important parameters as, steering geometry, wheel and tyre size,
wheelbase, frame stiffness and so on. This is simply because, balance and the
ability to start and maintain a turn can be achieved within a wide range of
these parameters. That is not to say that these factors are unimportant. We
shall now look a little more closely at one of the more important parameters
that come under the heading of steering geometry, i.e. TRAIL. Consider first,
which shows the basics of steering geometry.
of straight line stability, in addition to that obtained by precessional effects
as described above. But trail also introduces other effects which are vital
to the feel and handling of the motorcycle.
is much greater than that of the front, the rear wheel is the more important
in this respect. The reverse is actually the case for several reasons.
© Tony Foale 1986 -- 1997
Let's return to basics and look at the mechanisms of stability and steering,as they relate to single track vehicles (motorcycles in other words).
BALANCE.
As a single track vehicle, a motorcycle lacks inherent static balance, i.e.it falls over, if left to its own devices when stationary.
Once moving above a certain speed however even the most uncoordinated riders
find that the machine seems to support itself. So it is obvious that there are
two aspects of the balance process, the low speed case and that in the higher
speed ranges. There have always been clever sods who can balance indefinitely
on a stationary bike, but for most of us we need a minimum of forward motion
before this is possible. However, at these low speeds it is necessary to move
the handlebars from side to side to stay upright, and as all trials riders know,
it is easier if we stand on the footrests instead of sitting down. Let's examine
why. Now, if the combined centre of gravity (C.of G.) is vertically above the
line joining the front and rear tyre contact patches, then balance is achieved,
but this is an unstable situation, any small distubance such as a light breeze
will be enough to start a topple over, i.e. the C.of G. moves sideways.
is to move the tyre contact patch line to under the new position of the C.of
G. If the bike is stationary this can only be done to a limited extent by moving
the bars, however once under way we can steer the bike to place the position
of the tyre line wherever we need it, and this is why it is easier to balance
when moving. The other way to maintain low speed balance is by moving the combined
C.of G. of both the rider and machine to above the line joining the tyre contact
patches. This is what trials riders are doing when moving their bodies from
side to side whilst standing up. The high C.of G. of the rider has more effect
on the toppling over moment and also gives more control over the position of
the bike's C.of G. Thus to a great extent the process of low speed balance is
dependent on the individual skill of the rider. In addition, some bike parameters
can also affect the ease of remaining upright, the main ones being:
# 1. A low C.of G height helps.
# 2. A large trail changes the position of the tyre line more for a given handlebar
movement.
# 3. A small rake angle reduces the fall of the steering head when the bars
are turned away from the straight ahead position, assisting with the balance
process.
The balance mechanism at higher speeds is more complex, but at least is largely
automatic and independent of rider ability. To understand the action it is necessary
to look at a few properties of gyroscopes, which is another way of describing
spinning motorcycle wheels.
to maintain its plane of rotation. In other words, while it can easily be moved
laterally along the axis of spin, it resists tilting about any other axis, and
more importantly, when it is tilted it automatically causes a strong twisting
moment about an axis at 90 degrees to that of the original tilt. This twisting
effect increases as the speed of the wheel rises, this is known as gyroscopic
precession. When you have finished reading this, I expect you to go and remove
the front wheel from your brother's mountain-bike, if you then obey the following
intructions you will get a graphic practical demonstration of the strength of
these precessional forces, which are so vital to the balance and steering of
any bike. Firstly hold the wheel upright, as in, get your young brother (well
he won't be out riding, will he?) to spin it so that the top of the wheel is
moving away from you, as if it were the front wheel of a machine you were riding.
If you then try to tilt the spindle to the LEFT (equivalent to banking your
machine) you will find that the wheel _turns instantly and strongly to the LEFT,
as if steered by an invisible hand. In other words, your attempt to tilt the
wheel about its fore-and-aft axis has produced a torque swivelling it about
its vertical axis. Now start again but this time turn the wheel to the LEFT
about a vertical axis, just as sharply and strongly it will bank to the RIGHT.
Try both these manoeuvres again, but do it at different wheel speeds and tilting
speeds, you will see that the precessional forces depend strongly on these factors.
Note particularly, the directions in which these forces operate as this is important
for the automatic retention of balance. Let us now see how these forces keep
the machine balanced and on a relatively straight path without assistance from
the rider. Suppose the bike, whilst travelling along at a normal speed, starts
to fall to the left under the action of some extraneous influence. As we have
just seen, gyroscopic precession of the front wheel immediately turns it to
the left. This sets the machine on a curved path (to the left), so creating
a centrifugal force (to the right), which counters the lean and tends to restore
the machine to the vertical, the precessional forces are thus reversed tending
to restore the steering to the straight ahead position. In practice, that which
we regard as riding in a straight line, is really a series of balance correcting
wobbles, if we could look at the actual paths taken by the centre-lines of the
wheels, we should see that the front wheel path continually crosses that of
the rear. In the explanation above, I have only described the effects on the
front wheel, precessional forces are at work on the rear also, but it is much
harder to steer the rear wheel independently, as the whole bike must yaw, rather
than just the wheel and forks, as on the front. Hence, only a small contribution
is made to the auto-balance mechanism by the rear. We have now considered balance
in a straight line, but as we lean when cornering, there must be other factors
at work to maintain equilibrium under these conditions.
STEERING (CORNERING).
To analyse this, we can divide it into two phases;-1. Initiating the turn,
2. Maintaining the turn.Since the second phase is easier to analyse, let's look at it first. It is
not feasible to steer a motorcycle through a corner in a substantially upright
position, as in a car or side-car outfit, because the centrifugal force generated
would cause it to fall outward. Hence we must bank the bike inward so that this
tendency is counteracted by the machines weight tending to make it fall inward.
opposing moments, the one due to centrifugal force acting outward, and the other
to gravitational force acting downward (both acting through the C.of G.). The
actual angle, which depends on the radius of the turn and the speed of the machine,
is that at which the resultant of the two forces passes through a line joining
the front and rear tyre contact patches. This is the steady-state roll axis.
But how do we actually initiate the turn - do we lean or do we steer first?
Let's see what happens with each method. If we turn the handle-bar in the direction
in which we want to go, both centrifugal force and the front wheel precession
would cause the bike to topple outward, and that leads to gravel rash. But if
we momentarily try to turn the bar quickly in the opposite direction, (sometimes
known as counter steering) then these two forces will combine to bank the machine
to the correct side. Gravity will then augment the banking effect and this,
in turn, will give rise to gyroscopic forces helping to steer the front wheel
into the curve, whereupon the processes for maintaining balance as described
above take over and keep the bike on our chosen path. This is all very well,
I hear you say, but if this is the way to corner, how come we can steer a bike
no-hands. Well, it certainly is possible to do so, but only with a lot more
difficulty. Precise control and tight turns are difficult to accomplish without
handle-bar manipulation. Just try it! Let's consider the no-hands situation.
As we saw earlier, simply banking the bike steers the front wheel in the correct
direction automatically, through precession. But how do we make the bike lean
in the first place, what do we have to push against? There is nothing solid
to push against and so the only way to apply bank (without the facility of steering),
is to push against the machine with the inertia of our own body. This means
in practice, that in order to lean the bike to the right, we must initially
move our body to the left. So now we have two possible methods of initiating
a turn, and it is interesting to note that in both of them (banking and reverse
handle-bar torque) our physical effort is in the opposite sense to that which
might be thought natural, but when learning we adapt quickly and the required
action becomes subconsciously automatic. It is these reverse actions that require
us to learn to ride in the first place, when learning most of us wobble about
out of control until our brain latches on to the fact that counter-steering
and counter-leaning is the way to do it. Once the brain has switched into reverse
gear, it becomes instinctive and is usually with us for life, and we could return
to riding after a long layoff with no need to relearn the art of balancing or
steering. So which of these two possible methods of initiating a turn do we
use in practice? We probably subconsciously combine both methods, and the pressure
on the inner handgrip is partly forward (counter-steering) and partly downward
(banking). Remember though, that the actual counter-steering movement is very
small, since gyroscopic precession depends for its strength on the speed of
movement not on the amount of movement. If you still don't believe that steering
to the opposite side works, then next time you are out riding, try jerking the
bars quickly to one side, and see what happens. Leave yourself plenty of road
if your reactions are a bit on the slow side. Do this at about 40 mph., and
don't blame me if you fall off. The relative proportions with which we combine
the two methods depend partly on riding style but also on speed and machine
characteristics. For example, a heavy machine with light wheels at low speeds
demands a different technique from that applicable to a light weight machine
with heavy wheels at high speeds, and hence the two machines will have a different
feel. But humans adapt quickly and the correct technique soon becomes second
nature. It may seem strange that in the above discussion no mention has been
made of such important parameters as, steering geometry, wheel and tyre size,
wheelbase, frame stiffness and so on. This is simply because, balance and the
ability to start and maintain a turn can be achieved within a wide range of
these parameters. That is not to say that these factors are unimportant. We
shall now look a little more closely at one of the more important parameters
that come under the heading of steering geometry, i.e. TRAIL. Consider first,
which shows the basics of steering geometry.
TRAIL.
The primary function of this, it is often said, is to build in a certain amountof straight line stability, in addition to that obtained by precessional effects
as described above. But trail also introduces other effects which are vital
to the feel and handling of the motorcycle.
If the wheel gets displaced from the straight ahead position, i.e. the wheel
is at an angle to the direction of travel (slip angle is the technical term),
a force at right angles to the tyre is generated. Since the contact patch is
behind the steering axis (positive trail) then this force acts on a lever arm
(approximately equal to the trail) to provide a correcting torque to the angled
wheel. That is to say, if the steering is deflected by some cause e.g. uneven
road surface, then positive trail automatically counter-acts the displacement
and gives a measure of directional stability. However, as shown earlier, we
cannot just consider any steering effect in isolation, gyroscopic forces must
be considered also, suffice to say, at this stage, that in this case trail and
precession work in harmony to keep us on the straight and narrow.
is much greater than that of the front, the rear wheel is the more important
in this respect. The reverse is actually the case for several reasons.
Imagine that the contact patch of each wheel is, in turn, displaced sideways
by the same amount (say ½ inch.). The front wheel will then be turned
by approximately 7-10 degrees (depending on the value of trail) about the steering
axis, this gives rise to a slip angle of the same amount and generates a sideways
force that has only the relatively small inertia of the front wheel and forks
to accelerate back to the straight-ahead position. But the slip angle of the
displaced rear wheel will be much less (about ½ degree) and so the restoring
force will be reduced accordingly, but this also has to act on the inertia of
a major proportion of the machine and rider, hence the response is much slower
than is the case with the front wheel. From this, we can see that increasing
the trail as a means of increasing the restoring tendency on the wheels is subject
to the law of diminishing returns. It must also be emphasized that the distubance
to a machine's direction of travel, due to a sideways displacement of the tyre
contact patch, is less from the rear wheel than the front because of the much
smaller angle to the direction of travel that the displacement causes. To summerize,
while the large trail of the rear wheel has a relatively small restoring effect,
the effect of rear wheel displacement on directional stability is also small,
and hence compensates. As mentioned before, trail has effects other than directional
stability, let's look at a couple of the more important ones.
If we lean a stationary machine to one side and then turn the handlebars, we
find that the steering head rises and falls depending on the position of the
steering. In motion, the effective weight of the bike and rider supported by
the steering head, is reacted to the ground through the tyre contact patch.
This force tends to turn the steering to the position where the steering head
is lowest (i.e. the position of minimum potential energy). For a given amount
of trail, this steering angle is affected by rake angle and wheel diameter,
one reason why different size wheels feel different, if all else remains the
same. As long as we have positive trail, as is normal, then this turning effect
is into the corner. Thus the amount of front wheel trail affects the amount
of steering torque that the rider must apply (hence the feel of the steering)
to maintain the correct steering angle consistant with the radius of the turn
and the bike's speed. Some bikes seem to need to be held down into a corner,
whilst others need the opposite approach. This is also influenced heavily by
tyre characteristics, but that will have to wait for another occasion.
As we all know, even when we are riding straight ahead the steering feels lighter
on wet and slippery roads than on dry. This is because as we have seen, our
seemingly straight line is actually a series of balance correcting curves, with
the handlebars turning minutely from side to side all the time. Also as we have
seen, a small steering displacement produces a slip angle, which causes a restoring
torque. For a given slip angle, this torque depends on tyre properties, surface
adhesion and trail. On slippery surfaces the correcting torque is less, thus
through the handlebars, we get a feedback (dependent on trail) for the amount
of grip available. A bike with only a small trail value may give too much of
a sense of slipperiness in the wet, and give the rider a certain degree of apprehension,
whereas on the other hand, a large trail, under these conditions, may give out
a feeling of security, which can easily engender overconfidence with predictable
results.
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Urgent Legislation Alert Update!
URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT UPDATE!
March 13, 2007
My Fellow Gear Heads!
The people in Sacramento are still at it! Please read the following from our friends at SEMA and ACT! It's up to us to protect the hobby and vehicles we love!
URGENT LEGISLATION ALERT !
Attention California Members:
Here is a preview copy of the April Driving Force article regarding A.B. 616. The complete version of the newsletter will be sent to you later this month.
Thank you,
Jason Tolleson
jasont@sema.org
202/783-6007, ext. 39
=====
Driving Force - April 2007 Issue (PREVIEW)
California Proposes ANNUAL Emissions Tests for
Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Pre-1976 Vehicles Would Continue to be Exempt From Smog Check
Enthusiasts in California are rallying against legislation that has been introduced in the State Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. In addition, the bill would direct funds generated through the additional inspection fees to be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee for consideration.
The measure represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars for air quality deficiencies. In 2004, despite objections from the vehicle hobby community, California repealed its rolling emissions-test exemption for vehicles 30 years old and older and replaced it with a law requiring the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles.
“Under this year’s bill, pre-1976 vehicles would continue to be exempt from Smog Check”, said Steve McDonald, SEMA Vice President of Government Affairs. “However, vehicles 15 years old and older - currently 1976 through 1992 - that are not currently exempt would move from a biennial test to annual tests with the clear intent of moving them into the scrappage program.”
Sponsors of the legislation ignore the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction. Legislators are also ignoring the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
“Implementing an annual test would not only increase the cost to the vehicle owner, it would also give the state more opportunities to lure these vehicles into retirement,” added McDonald.
Recently, San Joaquin Valley Air Pollution Control District released an updated smog plan that calls for scrapping 30,000 passenger cars, five times the number previously planned. Scrappage programs, widely rejected by other states as an ineffective means of cleaning the air, accelerate the normal demise of vehicles through the purchase of older cars which are then typically crushed into blocks of scrap metal.
“By virtue of these scrappage programs, the vehicle hobby risks the loss of potential collector cars and parts forever that could have been used in a project,” commented SAN Director Jason Tolleson.
==============================
Do nothing and we could all loose our rides to the system. Like I said, it's up to us to Save Our Rides!
Write, Call or/and Email your representative today and tell them how you feel.
Visit The San Diego Auto Swap Website
Be sure and check out all the Great Wheels and Deals on our NEW FREE Classified Site. Just go to www.CarsNet.com , register, login, type in your ad, upload your photos and Bada Bing! your ad is up on the Internet. Try It, Its FREE!!!
Promote Your Business! Ad Space Is Available On Our Memorial Day, May 28 Auto Swap Flier. This flier will be in the Goodie Bags at the Del Mar Good Guys Event! Reserve Your Space Today Is The Last Day, Only One Space Left! Call Now!
See Ya At Da "Q" on Sunday, March 25
Ray Taylor
The CARS Net
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
email: ray@carsnet.com
phone: 858-484-9342
web: www.SanDiegoAutoSwap.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Friday, March 09, 2007
The Muscle Car Craze
The Muscle Car Craze
by: Jason Tarasi
Somebody once asked me why I was so fascinated with muscle cars. You know, it’s hard for an outsider looking in to understand why we muscle car lovers are so fanatical about our cars. Until they’ve been behind the wheel of a newly restored ’66 Pontiac GTO, they just haven’t a clue.
Why is it that we can browse through muscle car advertisements for hours on end? Why do we have to go to every muscle car show that comes near our town? Why do we drive out of our way to see some of the hottest muscle cars around? Why do we seemingly pour all of our extra money into our muscle cars?
Some people think a passion for muscle cars comes from peer pressure – a need to impress other people per se. As a muscle car enthusiast I can honestly say that’s not it, at least not for me. My interest in muscle cars dates way back to before I was ever concerned about what anybody thought. I have always found muscle cars to be fascinating and exciting.
First, muscle cars are original. Those who collect or restore muscle cars put their heart and soul into their hobby which makes every muscle car truly unique. Second, muscle cars are powerful. There’s nothing that gets the adrenaline pumping quite like sitting behind the wheel of a classic, high-performance muscle car. Third, when you take a classic car, restore it and muscle it up, you really have something to be proud of. It’s a lot like an artistic ability for me – like taking a blank canvas and creating an incredible piece of art out of it.
One thing is for certain, regardless of the reason a muscle car devotee is interested in muscle cars, we all seem to talk the same talk and walk the same walk. Dealing with muscle cars is an incredible social outlet. Whether we collect, restore, show, or race our muscle cars, it doesn’t matter. We’re all on the same wavelength and we truly enjoy looking at and chatting about muscle cars.
Some enthusiasts have specific lines of muscle cars that they are interested in, while others are just crazy about muscle cars in general. Some like imports, others like exports, and most all muscle car enthusiasts have a strong interest in classics. We can look at them, talk about them, drive them, or just work on them. Muscle cars give us something to look forward to, something fun to invest our time and money into, and the muscle car hobby keeps us out of trouble – for the most part.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Jason Tarasi
Somebody once asked me why I was so fascinated with muscle cars. You know, it’s hard for an outsider looking in to understand why we muscle car lovers are so fanatical about our cars. Until they’ve been behind the wheel of a newly restored ’66 Pontiac GTO, they just haven’t a clue.
Why is it that we can browse through muscle car advertisements for hours on end? Why do we have to go to every muscle car show that comes near our town? Why do we drive out of our way to see some of the hottest muscle cars around? Why do we seemingly pour all of our extra money into our muscle cars?
Some people think a passion for muscle cars comes from peer pressure – a need to impress other people per se. As a muscle car enthusiast I can honestly say that’s not it, at least not for me. My interest in muscle cars dates way back to before I was ever concerned about what anybody thought. I have always found muscle cars to be fascinating and exciting.
First, muscle cars are original. Those who collect or restore muscle cars put their heart and soul into their hobby which makes every muscle car truly unique. Second, muscle cars are powerful. There’s nothing that gets the adrenaline pumping quite like sitting behind the wheel of a classic, high-performance muscle car. Third, when you take a classic car, restore it and muscle it up, you really have something to be proud of. It’s a lot like an artistic ability for me – like taking a blank canvas and creating an incredible piece of art out of it.
One thing is for certain, regardless of the reason a muscle car devotee is interested in muscle cars, we all seem to talk the same talk and walk the same walk. Dealing with muscle cars is an incredible social outlet. Whether we collect, restore, show, or race our muscle cars, it doesn’t matter. We’re all on the same wavelength and we truly enjoy looking at and chatting about muscle cars.
Some enthusiasts have specific lines of muscle cars that they are interested in, while others are just crazy about muscle cars in general. Some like imports, others like exports, and most all muscle car enthusiasts have a strong interest in classics. We can look at them, talk about them, drive them, or just work on them. Muscle cars give us something to look forward to, something fun to invest our time and money into, and the muscle car hobby keeps us out of trouble – for the most part.
www.CarsNet.com
Wednesday, March 07, 2007
Urgent California Legislation Alert
Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
ww.CarsNet.com
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
ww.CarsNet.com
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
Jason Tolleson, jasont@sema.org
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com
SEMA 202/783-6007, ext. 39
URGENT LEGISLATIVE ALERT
California Introduces Bill to Require ANNUAL Emissions Tests
for Vehicles 15-Years Old and Older
Here we go again! Legislation (A.B. 616) has been introduced in the California Assembly by Assemblyman Dave Jones to require annual Smog check inspections for vehicles 15-years old and older. The bill would also require that funds generated through the additional inspection fees be deposited into an account which can be used to scrap older cars. You may recall that in 2004 a new law was enacted in California to require the lifetime testing of all 1976 and newer model-year vehicles. Pre-1976 motor vehicles would remain exempt under A.B. 616. The bill has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.
We Urge You to Contact Assemblyman Jones and members of the Assembly Transportation Committee (List Below) Immediately to Oppose A.B. 616
A.B. 616 ignores the minimal impact vintage cars have on air quality.
A.B. 616 could entice vintage car owners into allowing these vehicles to be scrapped.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that vehicles 15-years old and older still constitute a small portion of the overall vehicle population and are a poor source from which to look for emissions reduction.
A.B. 616 ignores the fact that classic vehicles are overwhelmingly well-maintained and infrequently driven.
A.B. 616 would increase costs by creating an annual inspection fee for owners of these vehicles.
A.B. 616 represents another attempt by California legislators and regulators to scapegoat older cars.
Please contact members of the California Assembly Transportation Committee immediately by phone, fax or e-mail to request their opposition to A.B. 616.
Please e-mail a copy of your letter to stevem@sema.org. Thank you for your assistance.
Assembly Transportation Committee
Pedro Nava, Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2035
Fax: (916) 319-2135
Email: Assemblymember.nava@assembly.ca.gov
Michael D. Duvall, Vice-Chair
Telephone: (916) 319-2072
Fax: (916) 319-2172
Email: Assemblymember.Duvall@assembly.ca.gov
Wilma Amina Carter
Telephone: (916) 319-2062
Fax: (916) 319-2162
Email: Assemblymember.Carter@assembly.ca.gov
Mike DeSaulnier
Telephone: (916) 319-2011
Fax: (916) 319-2111
Email: Assemblymember.DeSaulnier@assembly.ca.gov
Cathleen Galgiani
Tel: (916) 319-2017
Fax: (916) 319-2117
Email: Assemblymember.Galgiani@assembly.ca.gov
Martin Garrick
Telephone: (916) 319-2074
Fax: (916) 319-2174
Email: Assemblymember.Garrick@assembly.ca.gov
Shirley Horton
Telephone: (916) 319-2078
Email: Assemblymember.Shirley.Horton@assembly.ca.gov
Guy S. Houston
Telephone: (916) 319-2015
Fax: (916) 319-2115
Email: Assemblymember.Houston@assembly.ca.gov
Bob Huff
Telephone: (916) 319-2060
Fax: (916) 319-2160
Email: assemblymember.huff@assembly.ca.gov
Betty Karnette
Telephone: (916) 319-2054
Email: Assemblymember.Karnette@assembly.ca.gov
Anthony J. Portantino
Telephone: (916) 319-2044
Fax: (916) 319-2144
Email: assemblymember.Portantino@assembly.ca.gov
Ira Ruskin
Telephone: (916) 319 - 2021
Fax: (916) 319 – 2121
Email: Assemblymember.Ruskin@assembly.ca.gov
Jose Solorio
Telephone: (916) 319-2069
Fax: (916) 319-2169
Nell Soto
Telephone: (916) 319-2061
Fax: (916) 319-2161
Email: Assemblymember.Soto@assembly.ca.gov
SEMA's mailing address: 1575 S. Valley Vista Dr., Diamond Bar, CA 91765
www.CarsNet.com
Monday, March 05, 2007
The Most Important Accessory For Your Sports Bike
The Most Important Accessory For Your Sports Bike
by: Granny's Mettle
When it comes to accessorizing, riders and owners of motorcycles, particularly those that are new in this field, often spend their money in increasing engine performance. Oftentimes, they put their entire budget on performance motorcycle parts accessories like exhausts, fuel injection, mapping systems, and other components to help boost the motorcycle's engine.
But once they experience track riding, the illusion of power as the most important component to gain speed fades fast. In fact, too much of it without taking into consideration the other factors may just make your motorcycle more than you can handle. Many have experienced that it could actually make one slower than the others with less powerful bikes.
So what performance motorcycle parts accessories should you invest in? Here are some suggestions of expert riders of motorcycles:
• Suspension
Lance Keigwin of Star Motorcycle School and Hare Racing, suggests that riders should take full note of the suspension. This is one component that can increase speed in motorcycles, according to Keigwin. Unfortunately, most riders often overlook this factor. He further explained that some of the stock bikes today may perform under regular conditions; however, when pushed beyond the average riding situations, their performance becomes questionable. "I do not suggest, however, that you spend a fortune in full suspension components; instead, I suggest you work with your stock suspension and use components that may improve the stock equipment like the gold valve emulators," Keigwin added.
• Tires
According to Keigwin, tires are another important component when it comes to handling motorcycles. "Simple knowledge of how the different types of tires help maneuverability may also help you be a faster and smoother rider," he suggests.
Keigwin further suggests reducing weight from unsprung parts such as wheels, rotors, sprockets and engine parts. He said that this technique helps in handling the motorcycle better. His opinion is that some of the weight of the components may create the effect that makes the motorcycle go straight. However, by installing lighter components, according to Keigwin, helps in improving considerably the handling of the motorcycle. For him, "Power is almost at the end of my list of priorities; right before cosmetics."
• Handling factor
The handling factor also comes as a priority above power and cosmetics. This is according to Alex Florea of AFMotorsports. Florea said that to an average rider, several things may not be so visible. This includes installing taller tires without adjusting the geometry. This may cause riders to loose stability and may need to adjust the triple clamps on the forks to make up for the difference. With regards to slicks, he suggests that DOT tires are better investments.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Granny's Mettle
When it comes to accessorizing, riders and owners of motorcycles, particularly those that are new in this field, often spend their money in increasing engine performance. Oftentimes, they put their entire budget on performance motorcycle parts accessories like exhausts, fuel injection, mapping systems, and other components to help boost the motorcycle's engine.
But once they experience track riding, the illusion of power as the most important component to gain speed fades fast. In fact, too much of it without taking into consideration the other factors may just make your motorcycle more than you can handle. Many have experienced that it could actually make one slower than the others with less powerful bikes.
So what performance motorcycle parts accessories should you invest in? Here are some suggestions of expert riders of motorcycles:
• Suspension
Lance Keigwin of Star Motorcycle School and Hare Racing, suggests that riders should take full note of the suspension. This is one component that can increase speed in motorcycles, according to Keigwin. Unfortunately, most riders often overlook this factor. He further explained that some of the stock bikes today may perform under regular conditions; however, when pushed beyond the average riding situations, their performance becomes questionable. "I do not suggest, however, that you spend a fortune in full suspension components; instead, I suggest you work with your stock suspension and use components that may improve the stock equipment like the gold valve emulators," Keigwin added.
• Tires
According to Keigwin, tires are another important component when it comes to handling motorcycles. "Simple knowledge of how the different types of tires help maneuverability may also help you be a faster and smoother rider," he suggests.
Keigwin further suggests reducing weight from unsprung parts such as wheels, rotors, sprockets and engine parts. He said that this technique helps in handling the motorcycle better. His opinion is that some of the weight of the components may create the effect that makes the motorcycle go straight. However, by installing lighter components, according to Keigwin, helps in improving considerably the handling of the motorcycle. For him, "Power is almost at the end of my list of priorities; right before cosmetics."
• Handling factor
The handling factor also comes as a priority above power and cosmetics. This is according to Alex Florea of AFMotorsports. Florea said that to an average rider, several things may not be so visible. This includes installing taller tires without adjusting the geometry. This may cause riders to loose stability and may need to adjust the triple clamps on the forks to make up for the difference. With regards to slicks, he suggests that DOT tires are better investments.
www.CarsNet.com
Monday, February 26, 2007
History Of Porsche
History Of Porsche
by: Jeff Slokum
The history of Porsche began in 1948, June 8th to be exact. That is when the first two seater 356 was produced. There were 51 hand built Porsche 356/2 automobiles built in Austria. This model had a 40 hp 1.1 liter center engine.
The Porsche 911 rear engine automobile was introduced in 1963. It has been one of the biggest selling sports cars in the world. Over one million have been sold.
Porsche has a new offering for the sports car enthusiast in 2006. Positioned between the Boxster S and 911 Carrera, and marketed as an alternative to the BMW Z4 and the Mercedes SLK, the Cayman S is to start appearing in showrooms in January 2006 and will carry a price tag of $58,900.00. Porsche is only offering this hot-rod Cayman S and will not say when they will offer an entry level model.
The Cayman S is a two seater modified version of the Boxster convertible. The Cayman has a 295 hp 3.4 liter six cylinder mid-engine that goes from 0-60 mph in an impressive 5.1 seconds. Similar to the Boxster S, the Cayman S has a precise six speed manual gearbox with a double inertia flywheel and hydraulic clutch and power rear wheels. The Porsche Active Suspension Management is an electronic damping control system that is an option on the Cayman S. Switched on this system assures a smooth ride and it improves stability and grip for sharper steering responses.
Inside the Cayman S offers an on-board computer system with continuous indication of mileage, time and speed, automatic climate control, digital radio with in dash CD and a 7 speaker Bose Surround Sound System.
Porsche expects the new Cayman S to attract the upwardly mobile market. The company expects that Cayman buyers will be customers moving up from the Porsche Boxster.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Jeff Slokum
The history of Porsche began in 1948, June 8th to be exact. That is when the first two seater 356 was produced. There were 51 hand built Porsche 356/2 automobiles built in Austria. This model had a 40 hp 1.1 liter center engine.
The Porsche 911 rear engine automobile was introduced in 1963. It has been one of the biggest selling sports cars in the world. Over one million have been sold.
Porsche has a new offering for the sports car enthusiast in 2006. Positioned between the Boxster S and 911 Carrera, and marketed as an alternative to the BMW Z4 and the Mercedes SLK, the Cayman S is to start appearing in showrooms in January 2006 and will carry a price tag of $58,900.00. Porsche is only offering this hot-rod Cayman S and will not say when they will offer an entry level model.
The Cayman S is a two seater modified version of the Boxster convertible. The Cayman has a 295 hp 3.4 liter six cylinder mid-engine that goes from 0-60 mph in an impressive 5.1 seconds. Similar to the Boxster S, the Cayman S has a precise six speed manual gearbox with a double inertia flywheel and hydraulic clutch and power rear wheels. The Porsche Active Suspension Management is an electronic damping control system that is an option on the Cayman S. Switched on this system assures a smooth ride and it improves stability and grip for sharper steering responses.
Inside the Cayman S offers an on-board computer system with continuous indication of mileage, time and speed, automatic climate control, digital radio with in dash CD and a 7 speaker Bose Surround Sound System.
Porsche expects the new Cayman S to attract the upwardly mobile market. The company expects that Cayman buyers will be customers moving up from the Porsche Boxster.
www.CarsNet.com
Friday, February 23, 2007
Car Care Tips – How to Keep Your Car in Immaculate Condition
Car Care Tips – How to Keep Your Car in Immaculate Condition
by: Paul MacIver
There are several things you must do to keep your car in immaculate condition and retain its value. Apart from regular mechanical servicing and maintenance, your car must also be groomed regularly to keep it looking like new. This means more than simply putting it through the carwash each week. Although it takes a bit longer, you’ll find that hand grooming your car achieves a far better result. There’s no need to spend a lot of money on car care products, however you will need to buy a few. These are some tips I use every time I clean my car.
Exterior
Rinse your car down to get rid of excess dirt, and then wash it with a sponge and soapy water. Once you’ve washed the whole car, rinse it off and then dry it with a soft cloth. If you don’t dry your car afterwards, water droplets gather dust, and when they dry out, you’re left with many spots all over the body of the car. This is especially noticeable with dark colored cars.
Every month or so you should use a bug and tar removal product on the body of your car. There are many of these types of products available at most car care stores. A great product to go for is one which removes bugs, tar and other spots, while polishing the car’s surface at the same time.
Polishing and waxing your car regularly maintains the “shiny look” and also protects the paint from being damaged by the sun.
Always clean the wheels and shine the tires. If your car has alloy wheels, dirt shows up more easily and makes them look dull. You can buy wheel cleaning products which remove the build up of brake dust, but if you clean them each time you wash your car, you should only need to use water and a cloth. When shining the tires, I always use a spray-on tire shine which is quick and easy to use. This not only keeps them looking like new, but protects them from the sun and makes the whole car look magnificent.
For other external areas, use a surface protecting product which is designed to protect rubber, vinyl and plastic from the sun’s UV rays. This can be used on bumpers, rubber seals around doors and windows, and for the interior as well.
Interior
Purchase some car seat covers to protect your seats from getting worn out. They can easily be taken off and washed once in a while. I vacuum the seats and carpet every time I clean my car. Dirt and grit which falls deep into the carpet causes it to wear out quickly, so regular vacuuming is the best way to prevent this. Buying a set of floor mats will keep the majority of dirt from getting into your carpet.
Clean the inside of your car’s windows with a glass cleaning product and a soft cloth. I use a normal household glass cleaning spray for this and it seems to do the job. When cleaning the dashboard and other interior surfaces, be careful you don’t use a product that will damage them. Some vinyl and plastic surfaces can be ruined simply by using the wrong product when cleaning. Once cleaned, you can use a surface protecting spray on these areas also.
When you aren’t using your car, park it in the garage. This not only keeps it out of the weather, but also prevents it from getting dirty. If you don’t have access to a garage, consider buying a car cover. Protecting your car from the weather as much as possible will ensure it remains immaculate.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Paul MacIver
There are several things you must do to keep your car in immaculate condition and retain its value. Apart from regular mechanical servicing and maintenance, your car must also be groomed regularly to keep it looking like new. This means more than simply putting it through the carwash each week. Although it takes a bit longer, you’ll find that hand grooming your car achieves a far better result. There’s no need to spend a lot of money on car care products, however you will need to buy a few. These are some tips I use every time I clean my car.
Exterior
Rinse your car down to get rid of excess dirt, and then wash it with a sponge and soapy water. Once you’ve washed the whole car, rinse it off and then dry it with a soft cloth. If you don’t dry your car afterwards, water droplets gather dust, and when they dry out, you’re left with many spots all over the body of the car. This is especially noticeable with dark colored cars.
Every month or so you should use a bug and tar removal product on the body of your car. There are many of these types of products available at most car care stores. A great product to go for is one which removes bugs, tar and other spots, while polishing the car’s surface at the same time.
Polishing and waxing your car regularly maintains the “shiny look” and also protects the paint from being damaged by the sun.
Always clean the wheels and shine the tires. If your car has alloy wheels, dirt shows up more easily and makes them look dull. You can buy wheel cleaning products which remove the build up of brake dust, but if you clean them each time you wash your car, you should only need to use water and a cloth. When shining the tires, I always use a spray-on tire shine which is quick and easy to use. This not only keeps them looking like new, but protects them from the sun and makes the whole car look magnificent.
For other external areas, use a surface protecting product which is designed to protect rubber, vinyl and plastic from the sun’s UV rays. This can be used on bumpers, rubber seals around doors and windows, and for the interior as well.
Interior
Purchase some car seat covers to protect your seats from getting worn out. They can easily be taken off and washed once in a while. I vacuum the seats and carpet every time I clean my car. Dirt and grit which falls deep into the carpet causes it to wear out quickly, so regular vacuuming is the best way to prevent this. Buying a set of floor mats will keep the majority of dirt from getting into your carpet.
Clean the inside of your car’s windows with a glass cleaning product and a soft cloth. I use a normal household glass cleaning spray for this and it seems to do the job. When cleaning the dashboard and other interior surfaces, be careful you don’t use a product that will damage them. Some vinyl and plastic surfaces can be ruined simply by using the wrong product when cleaning. Once cleaned, you can use a surface protecting spray on these areas also.
When you aren’t using your car, park it in the garage. This not only keeps it out of the weather, but also prevents it from getting dirty. If you don’t have access to a garage, consider buying a car cover. Protecting your car from the weather as much as possible will ensure it remains immaculate.
www.CarsNet.com
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
The Characteristics of Antique Cars
The Characteristics of Antique Cars
by: John Purdy
There are some people that believe antique cars should no longer be driven on our open roads. The reason they think this way is because these old vehicles are considered relics of the past that just cannot match the larger and efficient vehicles on the market today.
On the contrary, there are a lot of vintage collectors of these roadsters. People do this as a hobby or to hopefully get a return of investment later when the market value of these cars go up again.
A car is considered an antique if it is already 25 years old. There are not that many modern vehicles that are able to survive this long which makes the early models very unique. In fact, the price of these rare machines goes up because of the historical value each of these have.
There are those who believe that the term antiquated should only be given to machines that were made prior to the Second World War. These machines served as the pioneers of today's vehicles since the technology back then paved the way for power steering, safety belts and other features that are required in all automobiles.
Are antique cars simple to preserve? The response is no. This is due to car manufacturers no longer assembling these vehicles and the parts making these both difficult to locate and costly.
Can the antique car be used daily? This really depends on the condition of the engine and since these are quite old, there is a possibility that these could breakdown. The brakes on the vehicle can also be a problem so checks must be done regularly.
Will it be a good idea to get insurance for the car? The answer is yes. These machines are rare and are not equipped with an alarm system which makes it easy for anyone to hot wire and drive off.
Where can a person buy an antique car? These vehicles can be purchased in a dealership. There are just a few around so the seeker can also try searching in the Internet and in the classified ads of the paper and automobile magazines.
Those who do not understand that much about cars ought to be accompanied by a knowledgeable mechanic. A trained technician should be qualified to look over the inside of the automobile and decide if it is in fact worth buying at that cost. The individual should also take the automobile for a test drive to get the experience of remaining behind the wheel.
Can the antique car be assembled by a person? The answer is yes. In fact, there are some associations who do this as a hobby and help the members find the missing parts in order to finish the vehicle. This can only be done if the individual is a skilled mechanic who knows everything about the car.
Will the person make a lot of profit assembling and selling the antique car? The response is no. In reality, more money is used up putting the entire vehicle together than finding somebody to buy it.
There are numerous antique cars to choose from. The person should look around and check if there is a model that is worth bringing home.
Antique cars represent a moment in history where traffic did not exist and people can take a trip on the country road. By doing some research and saving some money, the individual will be able to buy that dreamed roadster.
www.CarsNet.com
by: John Purdy
There are some people that believe antique cars should no longer be driven on our open roads. The reason they think this way is because these old vehicles are considered relics of the past that just cannot match the larger and efficient vehicles on the market today.
On the contrary, there are a lot of vintage collectors of these roadsters. People do this as a hobby or to hopefully get a return of investment later when the market value of these cars go up again.
A car is considered an antique if it is already 25 years old. There are not that many modern vehicles that are able to survive this long which makes the early models very unique. In fact, the price of these rare machines goes up because of the historical value each of these have.
There are those who believe that the term antiquated should only be given to machines that were made prior to the Second World War. These machines served as the pioneers of today's vehicles since the technology back then paved the way for power steering, safety belts and other features that are required in all automobiles.
Are antique cars simple to preserve? The response is no. This is due to car manufacturers no longer assembling these vehicles and the parts making these both difficult to locate and costly.
Can the antique car be used daily? This really depends on the condition of the engine and since these are quite old, there is a possibility that these could breakdown. The brakes on the vehicle can also be a problem so checks must be done regularly.
Will it be a good idea to get insurance for the car? The answer is yes. These machines are rare and are not equipped with an alarm system which makes it easy for anyone to hot wire and drive off.
Where can a person buy an antique car? These vehicles can be purchased in a dealership. There are just a few around so the seeker can also try searching in the Internet and in the classified ads of the paper and automobile magazines.
Those who do not understand that much about cars ought to be accompanied by a knowledgeable mechanic. A trained technician should be qualified to look over the inside of the automobile and decide if it is in fact worth buying at that cost. The individual should also take the automobile for a test drive to get the experience of remaining behind the wheel.
Can the antique car be assembled by a person? The answer is yes. In fact, there are some associations who do this as a hobby and help the members find the missing parts in order to finish the vehicle. This can only be done if the individual is a skilled mechanic who knows everything about the car.
Will the person make a lot of profit assembling and selling the antique car? The response is no. In reality, more money is used up putting the entire vehicle together than finding somebody to buy it.
There are numerous antique cars to choose from. The person should look around and check if there is a model that is worth bringing home.
Antique cars represent a moment in history where traffic did not exist and people can take a trip on the country road. By doing some research and saving some money, the individual will be able to buy that dreamed roadster.
www.CarsNet.com
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Classic Car Insurance: The Essentials
Classic Car Insurance: The Essentials
by: Matt Garimentis
Do you want to learn more about buying classic car insurance? After reading this article you will have the bare essential facts involved in classic car insurance. You can find many types of information about classic car insurance on the Internet today, but when you boil it all down, here is what you'll find:
Specialty car insurance providers often have lower rates. Although many people will just add their antique or classic rod to their existing family policy, you can often receive discounts by getting classic car insurance tailored to your needs. Classic auto owners have widely varying needs than the typical car owner. Although it might be easier to add your car onto an existing policy, if you desire the best rates, you will research specialty coverage. There exist quite a few classic car insurance companies providing this special service.
You will often be imposed a mile restriction. If you intend to drive your classic car for more than simply events in the public interest, be sure to get classic car insurance that allows for this. The point is to get car insurance which will fit your individual needs.
If you get a discounted rate, don't expect a larger discount during months your vehicle is in storage. Your reduced classic car insurance rate is already taking into account the decreased usage. As such, your policy will remain in effect during all seasons.
When you sum it all up, it makes most sense to do what is best for you. If finances are most important to you, then buy a specialty policy. If you instead want to do what is simplest, your family insurance company will be more than happy to insure your car.
You now have enough information to begin. Now that you have read these classic car insurance facts, you are prepared to begin taking action. You can always learn more as you need the information, but just keep in mind that more information won't benefit you unless you use it.
www.CarsNet.c
by: Matt Garimentis
Do you want to learn more about buying classic car insurance? After reading this article you will have the bare essential facts involved in classic car insurance. You can find many types of information about classic car insurance on the Internet today, but when you boil it all down, here is what you'll find:
Specialty car insurance providers often have lower rates. Although many people will just add their antique or classic rod to their existing family policy, you can often receive discounts by getting classic car insurance tailored to your needs. Classic auto owners have widely varying needs than the typical car owner. Although it might be easier to add your car onto an existing policy, if you desire the best rates, you will research specialty coverage. There exist quite a few classic car insurance companies providing this special service.
You will often be imposed a mile restriction. If you intend to drive your classic car for more than simply events in the public interest, be sure to get classic car insurance that allows for this. The point is to get car insurance which will fit your individual needs.
If you get a discounted rate, don't expect a larger discount during months your vehicle is in storage. Your reduced classic car insurance rate is already taking into account the decreased usage. As such, your policy will remain in effect during all seasons.
When you sum it all up, it makes most sense to do what is best for you. If finances are most important to you, then buy a specialty policy. If you instead want to do what is simplest, your family insurance company will be more than happy to insure your car.
You now have enough information to begin. Now that you have read these classic car insurance facts, you are prepared to begin taking action. You can always learn more as you need the information, but just keep in mind that more information won't benefit you unless you use it.
www.CarsNet.c
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Do Not Buy Flood Damaged Cars
Do Not Buy Flood Damaged Cars
by: Gregory Ashton
There are many flood damaged cars being sold on the market. Usually, flood damaged cars, SUVs and trucks are placed in salvage yards. Some though, are made spick and span and put into the car market and they will be up for sale. But the problem is, there really are no tell tale signs of flood damage that would give them away. This is because the cars will be restored so they would look almost like new. The damages caused by the flood would be erased or covered. After the changes, the cars will then be sold to unsuspecting buyers who thinks they are getting a good bargain.
Fact is flood damaged cars are being moved by unscrupulous merchants. Consumers can and should protect themselves against being taken advantage of in the auto market. Luckily, there are several things consumers can do to protect themselves from buying flood damaged cars.
The best things a consumer can do to be sure if a car is flood damaged or not is to get the history of the vehicle. You can do this by submitting the vehicle identification number (VIN) of a car to a website which provides vehicle history information. What these websites do is search a nationwide database of car information then gathers research on the car's title, maintenance record, registration, and odometer. You will instantaneously know if the vehicle has been stolen, has had a troubled past, or has had its odometer rolled back through the report that the website will return. Just a little research on a car's history will reveal if it has been salvaged, flooded, rebuilt, or is basically a "lemon."
Prospective car buyers should be aware of flood damaged vehicles being sold on the car market. Why shouldn't you buy flood damaged cars? Well simply because water leaves a lasting damage. Even if the devices and machines requiring electricity will restore it, it will probably fail sooner or later because mold and mildew aren't' easy to remove. And when a car is flood damaged any warranty warrant is voided.
Below are several things you can do to check if a car is flood damaged:
Check for moisture and dirt.
Flood damaged cars usually have moisture trapped and dirt inside the lights. Dampness can also be seen inside the compartment with glovesF, console and trunk so you better inspect these spots. Dirt, which can also be a sign of flood damage, can also accumulate under the hood. Moisture can also accumulate under the seat. Of course, rust is another telltale sign of flood damage.
Smell the car
Mildew can be easily detected by smelling. Mildew often forms on soaked fabrics so sharpen your sense of smell when you're on the lookout for a new vehicle. Also try to detect other smells that could be caused by flood damage like spilled oil or fuel.
Check if components match
Mismatched component could mean that the component are changed hurriedly after the car has been salvaged from a flood. So try to see if the carpet, seats and stereo components looks too new for the car.
Also try to check if the car has been titled several times from different states, which is usually a hint that its owners are trying to erase the questionable and negative history of the car by looking for spots where disclosing defects is not required or is easily evaded. Cars that are titled several times are usually salvaged or totaled.
Test drive
Of course the best way to check the performance of a car is to take it for a test drive. Check the electrical system including all the lights and the sound system.
Ask an expert
Have an expert mechanic or technician check the car. Have a second opinion if you may. Expert mechanics and car technician can detect flood damaged cars easily than ordinary people.
Remember that in buying a vehicle, never ever take a chance. Buying a damaged vehicle can cost you more than your money. It could also bring serious accident even death. If you suspect that someone is selling you a car that has been flood damaged immediately say no then walk away. The dough you will save in buying a flood damaged car will quickly go away by the headache it will bring.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Gregory Ashton
There are many flood damaged cars being sold on the market. Usually, flood damaged cars, SUVs and trucks are placed in salvage yards. Some though, are made spick and span and put into the car market and they will be up for sale. But the problem is, there really are no tell tale signs of flood damage that would give them away. This is because the cars will be restored so they would look almost like new. The damages caused by the flood would be erased or covered. After the changes, the cars will then be sold to unsuspecting buyers who thinks they are getting a good bargain.
Fact is flood damaged cars are being moved by unscrupulous merchants. Consumers can and should protect themselves against being taken advantage of in the auto market. Luckily, there are several things consumers can do to protect themselves from buying flood damaged cars.
The best things a consumer can do to be sure if a car is flood damaged or not is to get the history of the vehicle. You can do this by submitting the vehicle identification number (VIN) of a car to a website which provides vehicle history information. What these websites do is search a nationwide database of car information then gathers research on the car's title, maintenance record, registration, and odometer. You will instantaneously know if the vehicle has been stolen, has had a troubled past, or has had its odometer rolled back through the report that the website will return. Just a little research on a car's history will reveal if it has been salvaged, flooded, rebuilt, or is basically a "lemon."
Prospective car buyers should be aware of flood damaged vehicles being sold on the car market. Why shouldn't you buy flood damaged cars? Well simply because water leaves a lasting damage. Even if the devices and machines requiring electricity will restore it, it will probably fail sooner or later because mold and mildew aren't' easy to remove. And when a car is flood damaged any warranty warrant is voided.
Below are several things you can do to check if a car is flood damaged:
Check for moisture and dirt.
Flood damaged cars usually have moisture trapped and dirt inside the lights. Dampness can also be seen inside the compartment with glovesF, console and trunk so you better inspect these spots. Dirt, which can also be a sign of flood damage, can also accumulate under the hood. Moisture can also accumulate under the seat. Of course, rust is another telltale sign of flood damage.
Smell the car
Mildew can be easily detected by smelling. Mildew often forms on soaked fabrics so sharpen your sense of smell when you're on the lookout for a new vehicle. Also try to detect other smells that could be caused by flood damage like spilled oil or fuel.
Check if components match
Mismatched component could mean that the component are changed hurriedly after the car has been salvaged from a flood. So try to see if the carpet, seats and stereo components looks too new for the car.
Also try to check if the car has been titled several times from different states, which is usually a hint that its owners are trying to erase the questionable and negative history of the car by looking for spots where disclosing defects is not required or is easily evaded. Cars that are titled several times are usually salvaged or totaled.
Test drive
Of course the best way to check the performance of a car is to take it for a test drive. Check the electrical system including all the lights and the sound system.
Ask an expert
Have an expert mechanic or technician check the car. Have a second opinion if you may. Expert mechanics and car technician can detect flood damaged cars easily than ordinary people.
Remember that in buying a vehicle, never ever take a chance. Buying a damaged vehicle can cost you more than your money. It could also bring serious accident even death. If you suspect that someone is selling you a car that has been flood damaged immediately say no then walk away. The dough you will save in buying a flood damaged car will quickly go away by the headache it will bring.
www.CarsNet.com
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
The Rise And Fall Of The Muscle Car Era
The Rise And Fall Of The Muscle Car Era
by: Jason Tarasi
Power, speed and performance – those are the three major traits of a muscle car. When first produced, muscle cars were just pretty darn amazing because they combined the efficiency of a lightweight, mid-sized body with the performance of a high-power V8 engine and special design features that further increased the cars’ acceleration capabilities. Because muscle cars topped all other vehicles in terms of power, speed and performance, they were ideal for racing.
Muscle cars were produced from the mid-1960s into the early 1970s, but the production of such beasts fell drastically due to a number of factors. First was the controversy over whether it was wise and responsible to make such powerful vehicles available to the general public, primarily due to road racing. Because muscle cars were often used irresponsibly, liability relating to them was pretty high which forced insurance companies to increase rates for insuring muscle cars. Emission control requirements intended to curb pollution also played into the picture making it near impossible for automakers to produce muscle cars that met the standards they had to adhere to.
Needless to say, the muscle car industry changed quickly due to these influences. Demand decreased because many “would-be” buyers of muscle cars couldn’t fathom paying the enormous insurance rates for a high-power vehicle and automakers had to meet the challenges presented by pollution control standards.
Since muscle cars were produced for a limited number of years, they are valuable items for collectors and are still highly desirable to those who enjoy racing or desire a quick, powerful, mid-sized car. Since the decline in the production of muscle cars, some automakers have attempted to bring the muscle car era back to life by producing powerful vehicles that resemble the legendary muscle cars, but in my opinion, they don’t hold a candle to classic muscle cars like the GTO, the Road Runner or the Chevelle SS.
It will be interesting to see how the history of muscle cars plays out. Will present day automakers renew production of true muscle cars that are fast and powerful? Will there be enough demand to make muscle car production worth it to them? Or, will muscle cars continue to be limited to those classic models that were produced in the 60s and 70s?
Classic muscle cars are pretty amazing pieces of machinery. One that is restored and in cherry condition is really worth a lot of money. As time goes on, there are fewer muscle cars available which makes them even more valuable to classic car collectors and muscle car enthusiasts.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Jason Tarasi
Power, speed and performance – those are the three major traits of a muscle car. When first produced, muscle cars were just pretty darn amazing because they combined the efficiency of a lightweight, mid-sized body with the performance of a high-power V8 engine and special design features that further increased the cars’ acceleration capabilities. Because muscle cars topped all other vehicles in terms of power, speed and performance, they were ideal for racing.
Muscle cars were produced from the mid-1960s into the early 1970s, but the production of such beasts fell drastically due to a number of factors. First was the controversy over whether it was wise and responsible to make such powerful vehicles available to the general public, primarily due to road racing. Because muscle cars were often used irresponsibly, liability relating to them was pretty high which forced insurance companies to increase rates for insuring muscle cars. Emission control requirements intended to curb pollution also played into the picture making it near impossible for automakers to produce muscle cars that met the standards they had to adhere to.
Needless to say, the muscle car industry changed quickly due to these influences. Demand decreased because many “would-be” buyers of muscle cars couldn’t fathom paying the enormous insurance rates for a high-power vehicle and automakers had to meet the challenges presented by pollution control standards.
Since muscle cars were produced for a limited number of years, they are valuable items for collectors and are still highly desirable to those who enjoy racing or desire a quick, powerful, mid-sized car. Since the decline in the production of muscle cars, some automakers have attempted to bring the muscle car era back to life by producing powerful vehicles that resemble the legendary muscle cars, but in my opinion, they don’t hold a candle to classic muscle cars like the GTO, the Road Runner or the Chevelle SS.
It will be interesting to see how the history of muscle cars plays out. Will present day automakers renew production of true muscle cars that are fast and powerful? Will there be enough demand to make muscle car production worth it to them? Or, will muscle cars continue to be limited to those classic models that were produced in the 60s and 70s?
Classic muscle cars are pretty amazing pieces of machinery. One that is restored and in cherry condition is really worth a lot of money. As time goes on, there are fewer muscle cars available which makes them even more valuable to classic car collectors and muscle car enthusiasts.
www.CarsNet.com
Thursday, February 01, 2007
You Can Protect Your Car From Mother Nature
You Can Protect Your Car From Mother Nature
by: Matthew C. Keegan
Mother Nature has it out for you…your car, that is. The moment you bring your vehicle home from the dealership, the assault has begun. Sun, rain, snow, hail, dust, birds, debris, pollution, and a host of other elements and items can doom your “new car” look in no time. What can you do? Fight back, that’s how. Let’s take a look at some smart ways you can protect your vehicle’s finish and keep it from looking old before its time.
Wash and wax. Okay, so you don’t have a hose handy. If you go to the car wash, make sure that it is brushless, otherwise the circular marks on your finish will certainly do a number on your car’s appearance in no time. As far as waxing your vehicle, polishes made by popular brands including Turtle Wax should do the trick. Yes, I know, a friend recommended a particular brand that can give your car a look that is better than new. Go ahead and use it…just follow the directions on the bottle precisely!
Keep it covered. Yes, driving down the street with a car cover on your car will certainly get you some attention! I do not recommend that you do that, but having a car cover available for your vehicle makes sense even if you keep your prized possession garaged. Dust and indoor pollution can take its toll even when your car sits in your garage while bird crap, moisture, hail, tree sap, the sun, and small impacts can hurt your car’s finish when parked outside. The more layers your car cover has, the better the protection it will offer too. Select one that has mirror pockets for the best fit.
Minor details. Other accessories that offer protection for your vehicle include: floor mats and liners, seat covers, vent shades, hood protectors, and brake dust shields. If you carry pets regularly then a pet pad or pet box can protect your interior like nothing else.
When purchasing cleaning products make sure you read all labels carefully. That cleaner you use may not be the best thing for your wheels and the interior of your car should have its own type of cleaner. Check manufacturer’s recommendations to make sure that the product you use is the right one; some cars come with an initial supply of cleaning materials to help you properly treat your brushed aluminum or burl wood interior.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Matthew C. Keegan
Mother Nature has it out for you…your car, that is. The moment you bring your vehicle home from the dealership, the assault has begun. Sun, rain, snow, hail, dust, birds, debris, pollution, and a host of other elements and items can doom your “new car” look in no time. What can you do? Fight back, that’s how. Let’s take a look at some smart ways you can protect your vehicle’s finish and keep it from looking old before its time.
Wash and wax. Okay, so you don’t have a hose handy. If you go to the car wash, make sure that it is brushless, otherwise the circular marks on your finish will certainly do a number on your car’s appearance in no time. As far as waxing your vehicle, polishes made by popular brands including Turtle Wax should do the trick. Yes, I know, a friend recommended a particular brand that can give your car a look that is better than new. Go ahead and use it…just follow the directions on the bottle precisely!
Keep it covered. Yes, driving down the street with a car cover on your car will certainly get you some attention! I do not recommend that you do that, but having a car cover available for your vehicle makes sense even if you keep your prized possession garaged. Dust and indoor pollution can take its toll even when your car sits in your garage while bird crap, moisture, hail, tree sap, the sun, and small impacts can hurt your car’s finish when parked outside. The more layers your car cover has, the better the protection it will offer too. Select one that has mirror pockets for the best fit.
Minor details. Other accessories that offer protection for your vehicle include: floor mats and liners, seat covers, vent shades, hood protectors, and brake dust shields. If you carry pets regularly then a pet pad or pet box can protect your interior like nothing else.
When purchasing cleaning products make sure you read all labels carefully. That cleaner you use may not be the best thing for your wheels and the interior of your car should have its own type of cleaner. Check manufacturer’s recommendations to make sure that the product you use is the right one; some cars come with an initial supply of cleaning materials to help you properly treat your brushed aluminum or burl wood interior.
www.CarsNet.com
Thursday, January 25, 2007
Test Driving A Used Car
Test Driving A Used Car
by: John Sanderson
Nothing is quite as exciting as purchasing a new car. Even if it's a "used" new car. Don't get too caught up in the pretty shiny metal and chrome, it's what's under the hood that counts. Take a serious test drive before you make a decision. Used cars bought from a private owner don't have any warranty with them. You don't want to buy someone elses problem.
Do you homework. There is a lot of help available on line when you're purchasing a used car. You'll have the vin or vehicle identification number. With this number you can pull up a vehicle history through your state. Do a search for the model and year of your car online. Were there any specific complaints or call backs on this particular model?
The first place you should test drive this car is to your trusty mechanics shop. With a bit of notice he'll be glad to set a bit of time aside to go over the car with you. He'll take a look at your car with a keen and unprejudiced eye.
Take with you whatever service records are available on the car, these will help your mechanic understand the vehicles past. Your mechanic will check the hoses and belts and condition of the oil. These are easy fixes if they need changing or replacing. Your mechanic will check the radiator fluid for coolant level and to make sure the fluid is going to protect in severe cold conditions. He'll see how much oil, if any is present on the engine. Perhaps the car has been burning oil. He'll check the transmission fluid.
Another thing he'll check is the lights, inside on the dash, and outside to make sure they work. He'll check shocks, breaks and tires and alignment.
He'll take a look at the body. Is there any rust underneath on the frame? Does all the paint match, or has the car been repainted? Is everything in alignment? Do the doors open and shut properly?
Let your mechanic take the car out for a test drive. He may be able to pick up subtle things, perhaps a shutter or hesitation, or hear a sound that you may not. His is the best advice you're going to get in this situation.
www.CarsNet.com
by: John Sanderson
Nothing is quite as exciting as purchasing a new car. Even if it's a "used" new car. Don't get too caught up in the pretty shiny metal and chrome, it's what's under the hood that counts. Take a serious test drive before you make a decision. Used cars bought from a private owner don't have any warranty with them. You don't want to buy someone elses problem.
Do you homework. There is a lot of help available on line when you're purchasing a used car. You'll have the vin or vehicle identification number. With this number you can pull up a vehicle history through your state. Do a search for the model and year of your car online. Were there any specific complaints or call backs on this particular model?
The first place you should test drive this car is to your trusty mechanics shop. With a bit of notice he'll be glad to set a bit of time aside to go over the car with you. He'll take a look at your car with a keen and unprejudiced eye.
Take with you whatever service records are available on the car, these will help your mechanic understand the vehicles past. Your mechanic will check the hoses and belts and condition of the oil. These are easy fixes if they need changing or replacing. Your mechanic will check the radiator fluid for coolant level and to make sure the fluid is going to protect in severe cold conditions. He'll see how much oil, if any is present on the engine. Perhaps the car has been burning oil. He'll check the transmission fluid.
Another thing he'll check is the lights, inside on the dash, and outside to make sure they work. He'll check shocks, breaks and tires and alignment.
He'll take a look at the body. Is there any rust underneath on the frame? Does all the paint match, or has the car been repainted? Is everything in alignment? Do the doors open and shut properly?
Let your mechanic take the car out for a test drive. He may be able to pick up subtle things, perhaps a shutter or hesitation, or hear a sound that you may not. His is the best advice you're going to get in this situation.
www.CarsNet.com
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Simple Car Maintenance Tips
Simple Car Maintenance Tips
By: John Pawlett
You drive your car everyday. Do you pay attention to it? Do you feel that slight shimmy in the front end? Is there a new knocking sound under the hood? Is there a rattle in the dashboard? No one knows your car better than you do. If you feel something different, or if it isn't handling correctly take it to your mechanic. It could be something as simple as a tire out of alignment, or perhaps a loose belt. It's always best to find any small problem before it becomes a large one.
Here are some simple maintenance tips that you can follow to help prolong the life of your car, and help save you money.
Notice where you park your car and get into the habit of looking to see if there are any leaks when you pull out. This can be very tricky in a public garage with lots of stains from leaks from other cars, but if your car is leaking any type of fluid, transmission, radiator or brake the leak will look "fresh". If you see any fluid leaking have your car serviced as soon as possible.
Keep an eye on your tires. When you have your oil changed every 3,000 miles have your tires rotated. At this time the technician will inspect your tires for any wear. Keep your tires aligned. Check your tire pressure once every month. It's easy enough to read tire gauges and they even have electronic ones. Keeping your tires properly inflated helps increase gas mileage too.
As mentioned above, change your oil at least every 3,000 miles. The oil is the life blood of your car and keeping fresh oil in your car can extends it's life by many, many miles. At this time the technician will check your air filter, hoses and belts.
Keep your windshield washer reservoir full and carry an extra gallon with you. You don't want to be caught without washer fluid, and you don't realize how quickly you use it up, especially in the winter months when we get salt spray on the windshield. Replace your wiper blades once a year
Since man developed fondness for automobiles, the auto industry just grew bigger and more diversified. Almost every stage in the history of cars is marked by an invention, an introduction of a new design or car concept and a whole lot of new ideas aimed at improving car's performance, style and safety features. Likewise, replacement auto parts market has thrived due to the growing demands of auto users. Hence, today, more choices of high quality auto parts and even accessories are available for your car repair, car maintenance and customization.
www.CarsNet.com
By: John Pawlett
You drive your car everyday. Do you pay attention to it? Do you feel that slight shimmy in the front end? Is there a new knocking sound under the hood? Is there a rattle in the dashboard? No one knows your car better than you do. If you feel something different, or if it isn't handling correctly take it to your mechanic. It could be something as simple as a tire out of alignment, or perhaps a loose belt. It's always best to find any small problem before it becomes a large one.
Here are some simple maintenance tips that you can follow to help prolong the life of your car, and help save you money.
Notice where you park your car and get into the habit of looking to see if there are any leaks when you pull out. This can be very tricky in a public garage with lots of stains from leaks from other cars, but if your car is leaking any type of fluid, transmission, radiator or brake the leak will look "fresh". If you see any fluid leaking have your car serviced as soon as possible.
Keep an eye on your tires. When you have your oil changed every 3,000 miles have your tires rotated. At this time the technician will inspect your tires for any wear. Keep your tires aligned. Check your tire pressure once every month. It's easy enough to read tire gauges and they even have electronic ones. Keeping your tires properly inflated helps increase gas mileage too.
As mentioned above, change your oil at least every 3,000 miles. The oil is the life blood of your car and keeping fresh oil in your car can extends it's life by many, many miles. At this time the technician will check your air filter, hoses and belts.
Keep your windshield washer reservoir full and carry an extra gallon with you. You don't want to be caught without washer fluid, and you don't realize how quickly you use it up, especially in the winter months when we get salt spray on the windshield. Replace your wiper blades once a year
Since man developed fondness for automobiles, the auto industry just grew bigger and more diversified. Almost every stage in the history of cars is marked by an invention, an introduction of a new design or car concept and a whole lot of new ideas aimed at improving car's performance, style and safety features. Likewise, replacement auto parts market has thrived due to the growing demands of auto users. Hence, today, more choices of high quality auto parts and even accessories are available for your car repair, car maintenance and customization.
www.CarsNet.com
Monday, January 22, 2007
Are you Going to Restore a Classic?
Are you Going to Restore a Classic?
By: Stacey Wilson
There are many types of car followers and lovers. There are those people who simply love cars for the type of performance that they provide. There are also those who just get the satisfaction they want from watching by the sidelines. There are some like Jay Leno who have a knack for owning every other car imaginable. There are also some people who get the kick they want from restoring classic cars and vehicles.
To those who belong to the latter group, restoring classic cars can be quite an expensive and meticulous project but once you have done everything to make it look like it was just taken right out of its manufacturing facility, that would be when you would find everything you have done rewarding. Sure, you would do have to go through various mistakes and successes to get to the finished and restored vehicle but when everything is finished, that is when you would totally find what you did to be rewarding. It does take more than a couple of parts Cadillac of the 1920s to restore a vehicle.
If you already have a classic vehicle to restore, then you must also be armed with knowledge about that vehicle. Take your time. There is no reason for you to hurry. Make sure you do your research and make sure that you know the things important regarding your chosen classic. That way, if you have the right information and the right knowledge, you can then choose as to what you would like to do with your car.
There may not be enough resources for the knowledge you seek. However, there are a lot of experts in the auto industry who would be willing to help you out. You can ask around and maybe even join clubs to give you the right idea as per the future of your car. You can even ask help from those who did have had the time of their lives working with these classic vehicles.
That is when you can start doing your shopping. There are plenty of sources of those classic parts you need. Some may come pricey but if you are willing to purchase them, the decision would totally depend on you and your pocket.
www.CarsNet.com
By: Stacey Wilson
There are many types of car followers and lovers. There are those people who simply love cars for the type of performance that they provide. There are also those who just get the satisfaction they want from watching by the sidelines. There are some like Jay Leno who have a knack for owning every other car imaginable. There are also some people who get the kick they want from restoring classic cars and vehicles.
To those who belong to the latter group, restoring classic cars can be quite an expensive and meticulous project but once you have done everything to make it look like it was just taken right out of its manufacturing facility, that would be when you would find everything you have done rewarding. Sure, you would do have to go through various mistakes and successes to get to the finished and restored vehicle but when everything is finished, that is when you would totally find what you did to be rewarding. It does take more than a couple of parts Cadillac of the 1920s to restore a vehicle.
If you already have a classic vehicle to restore, then you must also be armed with knowledge about that vehicle. Take your time. There is no reason for you to hurry. Make sure you do your research and make sure that you know the things important regarding your chosen classic. That way, if you have the right information and the right knowledge, you can then choose as to what you would like to do with your car.
There may not be enough resources for the knowledge you seek. However, there are a lot of experts in the auto industry who would be willing to help you out. You can ask around and maybe even join clubs to give you the right idea as per the future of your car. You can even ask help from those who did have had the time of their lives working with these classic vehicles.
That is when you can start doing your shopping. There are plenty of sources of those classic parts you need. Some may come pricey but if you are willing to purchase them, the decision would totally depend on you and your pocket.
www.CarsNet.com
Saturday, January 20, 2007
Up Your Used Car Value By Stopping Rust Part 1
Up Your Used Car Value By Stopping Rust Part 1
by: Barbara Thorp
Rust is rust. It's unsightly, it speaks of neglect and inevitable decay. And no one likes it. Certainly not on cars, whether used cars or new. After all, we want our cars looking shiny and brand-new, just as it was when it left the car dealer lot.
When it comes to buying used cars, no one wants to buy a rust bucket. Rust radically depreciates your used car's resale value. So, whether want to buy used car or a new one, the trick is keeping rust from taking root in your car.
Three basic steps are:
FIND RUST
KEEP IT FROM STARTING
ATTEND TO IT ONCE IT HAS STARTED
Most people shopping around at the used car dealer lot fail to detect rust simply because they don't know where to spot it. Of course, you can't expect the dealer to be upfront about rust in their used cars for sale. One needs to understand then how rust usually starts and where it is most likely to emerge.
How Rust Starts
Rust usually begins through the chips and nicks your car receives from the pebbles and stones that hit it during daily driving. With a small nick exposing bare metal in an unnoticeable location, it is just a matter of time until rust forms.
Left unchecked long enough, this tiny nick will eat its way through to the other side. When this happens you have problems because once a rust hole starts, it cannot be stopped. It can only be slowed down.
Where to Look For Rust
The most likely areas to check for rust are in and around the wheel wells, and on the fenders immediately behind the tyres. These are the war zones where your tyres will kick up stones and chip the paint. The front of your car can also catch flying stones from other cars, making this a problem area as well.
The next time you're looking at used cars for sale, use a torch to look underneath the car, and behind the front and rear tyres on both sides. Of course, before you do this make sure the car is parked on a level surface in park/gear and the emergency brake on. If it is on a slope, put blocks under the wheels for added safety. Shine your light on the inside of the fenders and wheel wells.
Another word to the wise for those who buy used car
Avoid cars with fresh paint. Think about it: no one paints a car just because the colour has faded a little. It was painted because either it was in an accident or it had a rust problem or worse yet - both! A crash repairer can hide a lot of sin with paint and body filler
Other rust-prone places to check when buying a used car are the exterior flooring under the driver's and passenger's seats, the interior flooring underneath the carpeting/matting, under the carpeting/matting in the boot, and around the engine compartment. Use your torch, your eyes, and your fingers!
www.CarsNet.com
by: Barbara Thorp
Rust is rust. It's unsightly, it speaks of neglect and inevitable decay. And no one likes it. Certainly not on cars, whether used cars or new. After all, we want our cars looking shiny and brand-new, just as it was when it left the car dealer lot.
When it comes to buying used cars, no one wants to buy a rust bucket. Rust radically depreciates your used car's resale value. So, whether want to buy used car or a new one, the trick is keeping rust from taking root in your car.
Three basic steps are:
FIND RUST
KEEP IT FROM STARTING
ATTEND TO IT ONCE IT HAS STARTED
Most people shopping around at the used car dealer lot fail to detect rust simply because they don't know where to spot it. Of course, you can't expect the dealer to be upfront about rust in their used cars for sale. One needs to understand then how rust usually starts and where it is most likely to emerge.
How Rust Starts
Rust usually begins through the chips and nicks your car receives from the pebbles and stones that hit it during daily driving. With a small nick exposing bare metal in an unnoticeable location, it is just a matter of time until rust forms.
Left unchecked long enough, this tiny nick will eat its way through to the other side. When this happens you have problems because once a rust hole starts, it cannot be stopped. It can only be slowed down.
Where to Look For Rust
The most likely areas to check for rust are in and around the wheel wells, and on the fenders immediately behind the tyres. These are the war zones where your tyres will kick up stones and chip the paint. The front of your car can also catch flying stones from other cars, making this a problem area as well.
The next time you're looking at used cars for sale, use a torch to look underneath the car, and behind the front and rear tyres on both sides. Of course, before you do this make sure the car is parked on a level surface in park/gear and the emergency brake on. If it is on a slope, put blocks under the wheels for added safety. Shine your light on the inside of the fenders and wheel wells.
Another word to the wise for those who buy used car
Avoid cars with fresh paint. Think about it: no one paints a car just because the colour has faded a little. It was painted because either it was in an accident or it had a rust problem or worse yet - both! A crash repairer can hide a lot of sin with paint and body filler
Other rust-prone places to check when buying a used car are the exterior flooring under the driver's and passenger's seats, the interior flooring underneath the carpeting/matting, under the carpeting/matting in the boot, and around the engine compartment. Use your torch, your eyes, and your fingers!
www.CarsNet.com
Friday, January 19, 2007
Custom Car Covers For That Perfect Fit!
Custom Car Covers For That Perfect Fit!
by: Matthew C. Keegan
Bob Crowley and his wife, Teresa, were proud of their silver Honda Accord. Despite living in the city and parking their car right on the street, their ’98 Accord was nearly free of dings. The finish looked just as good as when they purchased the car. How could this be possible? With kids playing stick ball, tight parallel parking, air pollution, and pigeons that frequently splattered cars up and down the street, no car was immune from the regular insults of urban living. For the Crowley’s it was no mystery: a custom fitted car cover was placed over their Accord whenever it was parked to give it maximum protection. For an investment costing less than two hundred dollars you can protect your car too. Please read on to discover all the advantages of utilizing a high quality car cover.
Without exception, a custom fitted car cover offers the best protection for any vehicle. With side mirror pockets, a high quality car cover will fit your vehicle snuggly much in the way a well fitted dress graces a woman’s body or as a glove fits a hand. The benefit is a car cover that stays in place without flapping in the wind or sliding off.
Moreover, a custom fitted car cover will protect your car from the following:
Moisture – With four layers of protection a custom fitted car cover will resist moisture and protect your car’s finish from acid rain, road salt, hail, sleet, and snow.
Pollution – Air pollution, dirt, and flying debris can all wreak havoc on your car’s finish in no time. A high quality car cover will prevent your finish from looking old before its time.
Nature – In the city you have a burgeoning pigeon population to contend with, while in the suburbs you have squirrels, birds, and a host of other little critters who see your car as an invitation to leave their mark upon. Even if nature’s critters like your car cover, they won’t be able to do harm to your car.
Sunny Days -- You protect your skin with sunscreen, right? Don’t think for a moment that your car’s finish isn’t immune from harmful solar rays. Even the best finishes come under attack and need protection. Regular washes and waxing does help, but in between times your finish is under constant assault.
Small Impacts -- No, a car cover won’t protect your vehicle from another car slamming into it, but it can protect your car from someone who opens their door and bangs into your car as well as kids on skates who get a kick out using your hood as a seat for rest.
Intruders -- Why is it that strangers think nothing of peering into your unoccupied car when you are not around? Don’t think for a moment they are admiring the design of your interior! Likely, someone is casing your car for anything of value left out in full view or they are admiring your Bose sound system. Regardless, a car cover keeps the snooping folks away. What they can’t see they aren’t likely to go after.
High quality car covers such as those made by Covercraft can offer the best protection for your car. Each custom fitted car cover is developed for the specific make and model of your car no matter whether it is a Honda, BMW, Dodge, Kia, or any other vehicle. The more layers it consists of means better protection for your vehicle too. Select one with side pocket mirrors and your vehicle will receive maximum protection. Truly, for what amounts to a small investment a custom fitted car cover offers an excellent return on the money.
www.CarsNet.com
by: Matthew C. Keegan
Bob Crowley and his wife, Teresa, were proud of their silver Honda Accord. Despite living in the city and parking their car right on the street, their ’98 Accord was nearly free of dings. The finish looked just as good as when they purchased the car. How could this be possible? With kids playing stick ball, tight parallel parking, air pollution, and pigeons that frequently splattered cars up and down the street, no car was immune from the regular insults of urban living. For the Crowley’s it was no mystery: a custom fitted car cover was placed over their Accord whenever it was parked to give it maximum protection. For an investment costing less than two hundred dollars you can protect your car too. Please read on to discover all the advantages of utilizing a high quality car cover.
Without exception, a custom fitted car cover offers the best protection for any vehicle. With side mirror pockets, a high quality car cover will fit your vehicle snuggly much in the way a well fitted dress graces a woman’s body or as a glove fits a hand. The benefit is a car cover that stays in place without flapping in the wind or sliding off.
Moreover, a custom fitted car cover will protect your car from the following:
Moisture – With four layers of protection a custom fitted car cover will resist moisture and protect your car’s finish from acid rain, road salt, hail, sleet, and snow.
Pollution – Air pollution, dirt, and flying debris can all wreak havoc on your car’s finish in no time. A high quality car cover will prevent your finish from looking old before its time.
Nature – In the city you have a burgeoning pigeon population to contend with, while in the suburbs you have squirrels, birds, and a host of other little critters who see your car as an invitation to leave their mark upon. Even if nature’s critters like your car cover, they won’t be able to do harm to your car.
Sunny Days -- You protect your skin with sunscreen, right? Don’t think for a moment that your car’s finish isn’t immune from harmful solar rays. Even the best finishes come under attack and need protection. Regular washes and waxing does help, but in between times your finish is under constant assault.
Small Impacts -- No, a car cover won’t protect your vehicle from another car slamming into it, but it can protect your car from someone who opens their door and bangs into your car as well as kids on skates who get a kick out using your hood as a seat for rest.
Intruders -- Why is it that strangers think nothing of peering into your unoccupied car when you are not around? Don’t think for a moment they are admiring the design of your interior! Likely, someone is casing your car for anything of value left out in full view or they are admiring your Bose sound system. Regardless, a car cover keeps the snooping folks away. What they can’t see they aren’t likely to go after.
High quality car covers such as those made by Covercraft can offer the best protection for your car. Each custom fitted car cover is developed for the specific make and model of your car no matter whether it is a Honda, BMW, Dodge, Kia, or any other vehicle. The more layers it consists of means better protection for your vehicle too. Select one with side pocket mirrors and your vehicle will receive maximum protection. Truly, for what amounts to a small investment a custom fitted car cover offers an excellent return on the money.
www.CarsNet.com
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